Swash Zone (swash + zone)

Distribution by Scientific Domains


Selected Abstracts


Dynamics of multiple intertidal bars over semi-diurnal and lunar tidal cycles, North Lincolnshire, England

EARTH SURFACE PROCESSES AND LANDFORMS, Issue 10 2008
Selma van Houwelingen
Abstract Multiple intertidal bars are common features of wave-dominated sandy beaches, yet their short-term (<1 month) and small-scale (<1 km) morphology and dynamics remain poorly understood. This study describes the morphodynamics of multiple intertidal bars in North Lincolnshire, England, during single and lunar tidal cycles under two contrasting conditions , first when significant wave height was <0·5 m and second when significant wave height frequently exceeded 1 m. The relative importance of swash, surf and shoaling processes in determining morphological change was examined using detailed field observations and a numerical model. The beach featured four intertidal bars and both cross-shore and longshore bar morphology evolved during the field investigation, particularly under medium to high wave-energy conditions. Numerical modelling suggests shoaling processes are most common on the seaward two bars under calm wave conditions (Hs < 0·5 m) and that surf zone processes become more common during neap tides and under more energetic (Hs < 0·5 m) conditions. Surf processes dominate the inner two bars, though swash influence increases in a landward direction. The numerical modelling results combined with low tide survey data and high-resolution morphological measurements strongly suggest changes in the intertidal bar morphology are accomplished by surf zone processes rather than by shoaling wave or swash processes. This is because shoaling waves do not induce significant sediment transport to have any morphological effect, whereas swash action generally does not have enough scope to act as the swash zone is much narrower than the surf zone. It was found, however, that the absolute rate of morphological change under swash action and surfzone processes are of similar magnitudes and that swash action may induce a significant amount of local morphological change when the high tide mark is located on the upper bar, making this process important for bar morphodynamics. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [source]


Millennium-scale recurrent uplift inferred from beach deposits bordering the eastern Nankai Trough, Omaezaki area, central Japan

ISLAND ARC, Issue 3 2010
Osamu Fujiwara
Abstract A flight of Holocene marine terraces on the southwestern coast of Cape Omaezaki of central Japan provides evidence of recurrent millennium-scale uplift events. We reconstructed the uplift history of these terraces by using facies analysis of drill core and geoslicer samples, environmental analysis of trace fossils, and 14C age determinations. Coastal uplift can be identified by the displacement of beach deposits such as foreshore deposits, which represent the intertidal swash zone of a wave-dominated sandy coast. Three levels of former beach deposits facing the Nankai Trough were identified near the coast in the Omaezaki area. The highest of these, dated at about 3020,2880 BC, records a maximum of 2.2,2.7 m of emergence. The middle beach surface, of minimum age 370,190 BC, shows 1.6,2.8 m of emergence. The lowest beach surface, which is older than 1300,1370 AD, records 0.4,1.6 m of emergence. Our analysis of vertical crustal deformation data during the Holocene in this region suggests that rapid and strong uplift was restricted to the southwestern coast of the Omaezaki area and was probably caused by high-angle thrusting on subsidiary faults branching from the underlying plate boundary megathrust. [source]


Shoreline tufa and tufaglomerate from Pleistocene Lake Bonneville, Utah, USA: stable isotopic and mineralogical records of lake conditions, processes, and climate,

JOURNAL OF QUATERNARY SCIENCE, Issue 1 2005
Stephen T. Nelson
Abstract Shoreline carbonate deposits of Pleistocene Lake Bonneville record the conditions and processes within the lake, including the evaporative balance as well as vertical and lateral chemical and isotopic gradients. Tufas (swash-zone) and tufaglomerates (cemented, subaqueous colluvium or beachrock) on multiple, well-developed shorelines near the Silver Island Range, Utah, also present an opportunity to examine physicochemical lake processes through time. Three shorelines are represented by carbonate deposits, including the 23,20,ka Stansbury stage, 15,14.5,ka Bonneville stage, and 14.5,14,ka Provo stage. Mean ,18OVSMOW values of all three shorelines are statistically indistinguishable (,,,27,±,1,), when a few Bonneville samples of unusual composition are neglected. However, differences in primary carbonate mineralogy indicate that the correspondence is an artefact of the different fractionation factors between calcite or aragonite and water. Second, in order to sustain a much smaller, shallower lake during the colder Stansbury stage, the climate must have also been relatively dry. Third, ,18O values in tufa are higher than tufaglomerate by ,,,0.5,, consistent with greater evaporative enrichment of lake water in the swash zone. Fourth, mean ,13C values for the Provo, Stansbury and Bonneville shorelines (4.4, 5.0 and 5.2,, respectively) show that carbon species were dominated by atmospheric exchange, with the variations produced by differences in the oxidation of organic matter. Comparisons of shoreline carbonates with deep-lake marls of the same approximate age indicate that shoreline carbonate was much higher in ,13C and ,18O values (both ,,2.5,) during Bonneville time, whereas isotopic differences were minor (both ,,1,) in Stansbury time. In particular, the Bonneville stage may have sustained large vertical or lateral isotopic gradients due to evaporative enrichment effects on ,18O values. In contrast, the lake during the much shallower Stansbury stage may have been well mixed. Differences in the primary mineralogy (Stansbury and Bonneville, aragonite,>,calcite; Provo, calcite,>,aragonite) reflect profound differences in lake chemistry in terms of open versus closed-basin lakes. The establishment of a continuous outlet during Provo time probably reduced the Mg2+/Ca2+ ratio of lake water. Curiously, regardless of primary mineralogy, tufaglomerate cements are enriched in Na+ and Cl, and depleted in Mg2+ relative to capping tufa of the same age. This probably reflects vital or kinetic effects in the swash zone (tufa). We suspect that ,abiotic' effects may have been important in the dark pore space of developing tufaglomerate, where the absence of light suppressed photosynthesis. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [source]


Relationships Between Community Structure of the Intertidal Macroinfauna and Sandy Beach Characteristics Along the Chilean Coast

MARINE ECOLOGY, Issue 4 2001
Eduardo Jaramillo
Abstract. Eight sandy beaches were seasonally sampled along the coast of Chile, from ca. 21 to 42° S (about 3000 km) to study the relationship between community structure of the intertidal macroinfauna and beach characteristics. Sediment samples (0.1 m2, 30 cm deep) were collected (July , September 1998 and December 1998 , January 1999) with plastic cylinders at 15 equally spaced levels along three replicated transects extending from above the drift line to the swash zone. The sediment was sieved through a 1 mm mesh and the organisms collected stored in 5 % formalin. To define beach types, Dean's parameter (,) was calculated from wave heights and periods, and fall velocity of sand particles from the swash zone. Crustaceans (mainly peracarids) were the most diverse group with 14 species, followed by polychaetes with 5 species. The talitrid amphipod Orchestoidea tuberculata, the cirolanid isopods Excirolana braziliensis and E. hirsuticauda and the anomuran decapod Emerita analoga were the most widely distributed and common species. Regression analyses between species richness, abundance and biomass of the whole macroinfauna versus sediment characteristics, beach face slopes and morphodynamic beach states showed no significant relationships. Thus, macroinfaunal community characteristics did not increase linearly from lower intermediate to higher intermediate or dissipative beach states as had been found before in Chile or in other coasts. A comparative analysis with data from sandy beaches of other world regions showed that the number of species inhabiting Chilean sandy beaches was generally lower, whereas total population abundances were generally higher compared with values reported elsewhere. [source]


Abundance, Tidal Movement, Population Structure and Burrowing Rate of Emerita analoga (Anomura, Hippidae) at a Dissipative and a Reflective Sandy Beach in South Central Chile

MARINE ECOLOGY, Issue 2 2000
Eduardo Jaramillo
Abstract. To evaluate the effects of beach morphodynamics upon the abundance, tidal movement, population structure and burrowing rate of the crab Emerita analoga (Stimpson) (Anomura, Hippidae) we sampled two beaches in south central Chile (ca. 42° S), Mar Brava and Ahui with dissipative and reflective characteristics, res­pectively. The swash zone at the dissipative beach was 5,,,6 times wider than that of the reflective beach. A at the dissipative beach, upwash speeds were higher and the number of effluent line crossings were lower by more than an order of magnitude. To examine the tidal movement of E. analoga, we collected crabs from 5 to 6 tidal levels of each beach every 2 h across 12 h of the tidal cycle. The intertidal distribution of crabs differed between beaches; i. e., at the dissipative beach they were primarily located at the swash zone, while at the reflective beach they were mostly located at the low tide level and shallow subtidal. The change in position of crabs was pronounced across the tidal cycle at the dissipative beach (Mar Brava), with most of the animals remaining in the active swash zone. Body size data were used to construct size frequency distributions for each population. Crabs from the dissipative beach reached larger sizes than those at the reflective beach. Sediments were coarser at the latter versus the former beach. Crabs burrowed at similar rates in the sand from both beaches, a result which supports the idea that E. analoga is a "sediment generalist" capable of burrowing successfully in a wide range of sediment types. This characteristic is likely a key to the broad success of this species on the full range of beach morphodynamic types along the coasts of South and North America. [source]