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Cosmetic Ingredient (cosmetic + ingredient)
Selected AbstractsCosmeceutical properties of polysaccharides from the root bark of Ulmus davidiana var. japonicaINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Issue 2 2007Sang Yong Eom In Korea and China, Ulmus davidiana var. japonica has been used as a traditional oriental medicine for the treatment of difficulty in urination, skin inflammation, etc. In order to investigate the potential of a polysaccharide extract from Ulmus davidiana var. japonica as a cosmetic ingredient, we measured its moisturizing effect, photo-induced cytotoxicity, and anti-inflammatory effect. After hydrolysis, HPLC experiments showed that the composition of the polysaccharide extract was mainly rhamnose, galactose, and glucose. The molecular weight of the obtained Ulmus davidiana root extract was 20 000. The intrinsic viscosity was 90 dL/g. In a moisturizing test conducted through the measurement of water loss in a desiccator and of moisture content with a Corneometer CM820, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed almost the same moisturizing effect as hyaluronic acid. In an assay for inhibition of the H2O2-activated release of PGE2, IL-6, and IL-8 in normal human fibroblast cell lines, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed an inhibitory activity of PGE2 release in a dose-dependent manner (up to 85.9% at a concentration of 0.1%). The percent inhibition of the release of IL-6 was in the range of 45.6,64.5% (H2O2 was used as the positive control). Moreover, the release of IL-8 was completely inhibited in the entire concentration range (>0.0025%). In a test of recovery from photo-induced damage after UVA irradiation (3 J/cm2), the cell recovery of human fibroblasts increased to levels two times higher than that of the positive control, which was UVA-damaged cells in the absence of Ulmus davidiana root extract (up to 60.2% at 3.0% of Ulmus davidiana root extract). In a photo-induced cytotoxicity assay in the presence of promethazine as a photosensitizer, Ulmus davidiana root extract showed approximately 48% of the increased cell viability of the control. Therefore, Ulmus davidiana root extract may be useful for the development of a cosmetic ingredient. [source] Nicotinamide , biologic actions of an emerging cosmetic ingredientINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Issue 5 2005N. Otte Synopsis Nicotinamide, the water-soluble amide of nicotinic acid, is a component of the two most important coenzymes , nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate. Thus nicotinamide is involved in numerous oxidation,reduction reactions in mammalian biological systems. Nicotinamide essentially acts as an antioxidant. Most effects are exerted via poly-adenosine diphosphate-ribose polymerase inhibition. Thus nicotinamide increasingly gains interest in the prevention and treatment of several skin diseases. It is well established in the systemic therapy of pellagra, a deficiency disease linked to nicotinic acid, but with respect to topical use there is still a need for further evidence with respect to its manifold potential uses. Currently, its local use is established in the care of acne-prone skin. Résumé Le nicotinamide, l,amide hydrosoluble de l'acide nicotinique est un composant des deux plus importants co-enzymes NAD et NADP. Le nicotinamide est impliqué dans de nombreuses réactions d'oxydo-réduction dans les systèmes biologiques des mammifères. Le nicotinamide agit essentiellement en tant qu'anti-oxydant. La plupart des effets sont exercés via l'inhibition de la poly (ADP-ribose) polymerase (PARP). Ainsi, l'intérêt du nicotinamide croît dans la prévention et le traitement de nombreuses maladies cutanées. Son rôle est bien établi dans la thérapie systémique de la pellagre, une maladie déficiente liée à l'acide nicotinique, mais en ce qui concerne son utilisation topique, du fait de ses multiples applications potentielles, il est encore nécessaire d'accumuler davantage de preuves. Son utilisation locale est couramment admise dans le traitement des peaux sujettes à l'acné. [source] The penetration enhancement and the lipolytic effects of TAT,GKH, both in in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivoINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Issue 5 2004J. Lim It was demonstrated that the trans-activating transcriptional activator (TAT) protein from HIV-1 could enter cells when added to the surrounding media. TAT peptide chemically attached to various proteins was able to deliver these proteins to various cells and even at high levels in heart and spleen tissues in mice. In this study, the tri-peptide GKH (glycine,lysine,histidine) derived from the parathyroid hormone, which is known as a lipolytic peptide, was attached to 9-poly lysine (TAT) to be used as a cosmetic ingredient for eye-bag care product. When glycerol is released, expressed as the extracellular glycerol concentration (the so-called lipolysis index), TAT,GKH at 10,5m induces a maximal lipolytic effect of approximately 41.5% in epididymal adipocytes isolated from rats, compared with basal lipolysis. In a microdialysis study, TAT,GKH was perfused into epididymal adipose tissues of anaesthetized rats in increasing concentrations in a Ringer solution. The glycerol concentration in each dialysate was measured using an ultra-sensitive radiometric method. The perfusion of TAT,GKH induced a lipolytic effect. A penetration study showed that TAT,GKH resulted in a sevenfold higher penetration into excised hairless mice skin than GKH. An in vivo study showed that a TAT,GKH containing emulsion had a better effect upon the relative volume reduction of eye bag after 28 days of application on 22 healthy female volunteers than the placebo. It was therefore concluded that TAT,GKH increased skin penetration, which resulted in enhanced lipolytic effects in in vitro, ex vivo and in volume reduction of eye-bags in in vivo studies. [source] Skin sensitization potency of isoeugenol and its dimers evaluated by a non-radioisotopic modification of the local lymph node assay and guinea pig maximization testJOURNAL OF APPLIED TOXICOLOGY, Issue 4 2008Masahiro Takeyoshi Abstract Allergic contact dermatitis is the serious unwanted effect arising from the use of consumer products such as cosmetics. Isoeugenol is a fragrance chemical with spicy, carnation-like scent, is used in many kinds of cosmetics and is a well-known moderate human sensitizer. It was previously reported that the dimerization of eugenol yielded two types of dimer possessing different sensitization potencies. This study reports the differences in skin sensitization potencies for isoeugenol and two types of dimer, , -O-4-dilignol and dehydrodiisoeugenol (DIEG), as evaluated by the non-radioisotopic local lymph node assay (non-RI LLNA) and guinea pig maximization test. In the guinea pig maximization test, isoeugenol, , -O-4-dilignol and DIEG were classified as extreme, weak and moderate sensitizers, respectively. As for the results of non-RI LLNA, the EC3 for isoeugenol, , -O-4-dilignol and DIEG were calculated as 12.7%, >30% and 9.4%, respectively. The two types of isoeugenol dimer showed different sensitizing activities similar to the case for eugenol dimers. A reduction of sensitization potency achieved by dimerization may lead to developing safer cosmetic ingredients. Isoeugenol dimers are not currently used for fragrance chemicals. However, the dimerization of isoeugenol may yield a promising candidate as a cosmetic ingredient with low sensitization risk. The data may also provide useful information for the structure-activity relationship (SAR) in skin sensitization. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [source] Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanismsJOURNAL OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY, Issue 2 2007Sylvie Verdier-Sévrain MD Summary Water is absolutely essential for the normal functioning of the skin and especially its outer layer, the stratum corneum (SC). Loss of water from the skin must be carefully regulated, a function dependent on the complex nature of the SC. The retention of water in the SC is dependent on two major components: (1) the presence of natural hygroscopic agents within the corneocytes (collectively referred to as natural moisturizing factor) and (2) the SC intercellular lipids orderly arranged to form a barrier to transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The water content of the SC is necessary for proper SC maturation and skin desquamation. Increased TEWL impairs enzymatic functions required for normal desquamation resulting in the visible appearance of dry, flaky skin. There have been recent discoveries regarding the complex mechanisms of skin hydration. In particular, it has been discovered that glycerol, a well-known cosmetic ingredient, exists in the SC as a natural endogenous humectant. Hyaluronan, which has been regarded mainly as dermal component, is found in the epidermis and is important for maintaining normal SC structure and epidermal barrier function. More importantly, the discovery of the existence of the water-transporting protein aquaporin-3 in the viable epidermis and the presence of tight junction structures at the junction between the stratum granulosum and SC have brought new insights into the mechanisms of skin water distribution and barrier function. [source] Determination of cosmetic ingredients causing extrusion-coated and adhesive joint multilayer packaging delaminationPACKAGING TECHNOLOGY AND SCIENCE, Issue 7 2009Álvaro Garrido-López Abstract In order to study the effect of several compounds on packaging stability, different cosmetic ingredients at two concentration levels were added to a NeoPCL® (Acofarma, Terrassa, Spain) water emulsion, and the preparations packed in sachets and stored at 40°C during 3 months. After that, the packaging was subjected to a T-peel test and headspace solid-phase microextraction gas chromatography mass spectrometry (HS-SPME-GC-MS) analysis. The HS-SPME-GC-MS analyses were performed using a 75,,m carboxen polydimethylsiloxane fibre to check for the presence of the studied analytes in the inner layers. The study revealed that the presence of a phenyl and a hydroxyl group in the compound structure lead to an important loss of adhesion between packaging layers joined by an adhesive. The interaction between the cosmetic ingredient and the adhesive was proposed as the main cause of the loss of adhesion. However, extrusion-coating packaging was more susceptible to delamination, particularly with the volatile compounds. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [source] Eco-friendly methodologies for the synthesis of some aromatic esters, well-known cosmetic ingredientsINTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, Issue 1 2005C. Villa Synopsis Solid,liquid solvent-free phase transfer catalysis (PTC) and acidic catalysis in dry media were applied, with noticeable improvement and simplification over classical procedures in a Green Chemistry context, to the synthesis of some aromatic esters useful as cosmetic ingredients: 3-methylbutyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, well-known ultraviolet B sunscreen filters; 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, UV absorber and cutaneous antilipoperoxidant; propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate and butyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (parabens), antimicrobial agents. The reactions were performed under microwave (MW) activation and conventional heating. The best results for the synthesis of cinnamic, salicylic and 4-(dimethylamino)benzoic esters were achieved by in situ preformed carboxylates alkylation with alkyl bromides using PTC. The 4-hydroxybenzoates were obtained in good yields by classical esterification of the acid with alcohols using a simple heterogeneous mixture of reagents with catalytic amounts of p -toluenesulfonic acid (PTSA). The comparisons of yields and thermal profiles under either MW or conventional heating were studied and reported. Résumé La catalyse par transfert de phase (CTP) solide-liquide sans solvant et l'estérification acido-catalysée en ,,milieu sec'' ont été appliquées, dans le cadre de la ,,chimie verte'', avec des nettes améliorations et simplifications par rapport aux méthodes classiques, à la synthèse de certains esters aromatiques, ingrédients cosmétiques: 3-methylbutyl 4-méthoxycinnamate, 2-éthylhéxyl 4-méthoxycinnamate, 2-éthylhéxyl 4-(diméthylamino) benzoate et 2-éthylhéxyl salicylate, filtres solaires UVB bien connus; 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, filtre UV et antilipopéroxydant cutané; propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate et butyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (parabens), agents antimicrobien. Les réactions ont été procédées sous irradiation micro-onde et par chauffage classique. Pour la synthèse des esters dérivés de l'acide cinnamique, salicylique et 4-(diméthylamino)benzoïque les meilleurs résultats ont été obtenus grâce à la CTP par alkylation des carboxylates (préformés in situ) avec des bromures d'alkyle. Les esters de l'acide 4-hydroxybenzoique ont été obtenus avec de bons rendements par simple mélange hétérogène des réactifs et d'acide p-toluènesulfonique (PTSA) comme catalyseur. Les rendements et les profils de montée en température sous micro-ondes et par chauffage classique ont été comparés. [source] Skin sensitization potency of isoeugenol and its dimers evaluated by a non-radioisotopic modification of the local lymph node assay and guinea pig maximization testJOURNAL OF APPLIED TOXICOLOGY, Issue 4 2008Masahiro Takeyoshi Abstract Allergic contact dermatitis is the serious unwanted effect arising from the use of consumer products such as cosmetics. Isoeugenol is a fragrance chemical with spicy, carnation-like scent, is used in many kinds of cosmetics and is a well-known moderate human sensitizer. It was previously reported that the dimerization of eugenol yielded two types of dimer possessing different sensitization potencies. This study reports the differences in skin sensitization potencies for isoeugenol and two types of dimer, , -O-4-dilignol and dehydrodiisoeugenol (DIEG), as evaluated by the non-radioisotopic local lymph node assay (non-RI LLNA) and guinea pig maximization test. In the guinea pig maximization test, isoeugenol, , -O-4-dilignol and DIEG were classified as extreme, weak and moderate sensitizers, respectively. As for the results of non-RI LLNA, the EC3 for isoeugenol, , -O-4-dilignol and DIEG were calculated as 12.7%, >30% and 9.4%, respectively. The two types of isoeugenol dimer showed different sensitizing activities similar to the case for eugenol dimers. A reduction of sensitization potency achieved by dimerization may lead to developing safer cosmetic ingredients. Isoeugenol dimers are not currently used for fragrance chemicals. However, the dimerization of isoeugenol may yield a promising candidate as a cosmetic ingredient with low sensitization risk. The data may also provide useful information for the structure-activity relationship (SAR) in skin sensitization. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [source] REACH: impact on the US cosmetics industry?JOURNAL OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY, Issue 1 2009Anne Pouillot MS Summary The Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and restriction of Chemicals (REACH) is a recent European regulation on chemical substances meant to protect human health and the environment. REACH imposes the "precautionary principle" where additional data and definitive action are required when uncertainty is identified. The cosmetics industry is only partially concerned by REACH: while the stages of registration and evaluation apply to cosmetics, those of authorization and restriction most likely will not, as cosmetic ingredients are already subject to regulation by various agencies and directives. REACH has potential benefits to the industry including the possibility of reassuring consumers and improving their image of chemicals and cosmetics. However, REACH also has potential disadvantages, mainly with regard to impeding innovation. The American cosmetics industry will be affected by REACH, because all US manufacturers who export substances to Europe will have to fully comply with REACH. [source] Determination of cosmetic ingredients causing extrusion-coated and adhesive joint multilayer packaging delaminationPACKAGING TECHNOLOGY AND SCIENCE, Issue 7 2009Álvaro Garrido-López Abstract In order to study the effect of several compounds on packaging stability, different cosmetic ingredients at two concentration levels were added to a NeoPCL® (Acofarma, Terrassa, Spain) water emulsion, and the preparations packed in sachets and stored at 40°C during 3 months. After that, the packaging was subjected to a T-peel test and headspace solid-phase microextraction gas chromatography mass spectrometry (HS-SPME-GC-MS) analysis. The HS-SPME-GC-MS analyses were performed using a 75,,m carboxen polydimethylsiloxane fibre to check for the presence of the studied analytes in the inner layers. The study revealed that the presence of a phenyl and a hydroxyl group in the compound structure lead to an important loss of adhesion between packaging layers joined by an adhesive. The interaction between the cosmetic ingredient and the adhesive was proposed as the main cause of the loss of adhesion. However, extrusion-coating packaging was more susceptible to delamination, particularly with the volatile compounds. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [source] | ||||||||||